Hair Straightening, part 2

If you are finding this post for the first time, go back and read the previous post before starting in on this one... :)

 

Now you're wondering if this is true, why would any salon carry and perform such a service? Sadly most salon professionals are not well educated in the chemistry behind the chemical process they perform, and rely on the information provided to them by the product rep. that sells the product. That being said the inherent problem becomes obvious, the rep wants to make money, the company wants to make money, so the product is sold to the salon in the best light possible, often without the salon even knowing how or why it works. Keep in mind that the danger for the salon professional is just as great as for the client, after all, it’s the stylist that is handling the formaldehyde each service, client after client.

It is the professional opinion of the staff at Ritual that the Brazilian Blowout or (BKT) are too much of a liability to the health and safety for the client and the stylist, therefore we do not offer the service and DO NOT recommend it to ANYONE.

The educated decision...

Now that we have effectively eliminated one of the three options for altering the hair to be straight, lets look at the remaining two. That is of course assuming you value your health and life.

Before getting into the details of the differences between the two services, it is best to evaluate your decision to chemically alter your hair in the first place. A good salon will always have a thorough consult explaining the pros and cons of the service and how it will react with each client's hair type and texture. It should be made clear that each of these services are permanent and will remain in its altered chemical state, leaving only the new growth in its natural state of curl. Each client has hair that is unique to them, thus the limitations and effects of the service will vary from person to person, however, basic facts are: Once the hair is straight, you can curl it with a curling iron or rods but achieving that natural curl is unlikely through styling. Washing it is just like washing your natural hair. It may feel softer or even thinner or thicker than before.

Your stylist should also go over the reasons why you should not chemically alter your hair. If you often utilize your natural curl in styling your hair, realize that you will no longer be able to achieve that natural curl. If you like to change the color of your hair often, or are thinking about changing the color of your hair keep in mind that changes in color may affect your hairs health and physical state, rendering it unfit to be relaxed or thermal straightened.
So you’ve had your consult and are fully informed about the chemical process of altering your hair. which do you choose, the Relaxer or the Thermal Straightener? The answer to that question depends on the type of hair you have, how much hair you have, and how you want to style it after the service. Often people with very curly hair feel like it is kinky or unruly. They don't necessarily want to have straight hair but rather relax the curl into a more manageable wave. The solution would then be a Chemical Relaxer. As the name implies, it is intended to relax the curl in the hair, and is limited in how much it can relax. The maximum a relaxer can smooth the hair is 70-80%, that means that it takes out up to 80% of the curl. If the client wants less curl removed, the stylist can perform a Soft Wave or Wave Reduction by using extra large sized rollers to reshape the existing curl into something less tight. This can effectively reduce the curl by 30-50%.
Thermal Straightening is a much longer process because the hair gets thermally straightened with a flat iron about 3 to 4 times throughout the whole service, which is what makes it so effective in reducing the curl. A Thermal service can reduce the curl in the hair by 95%. Often times the client needs only to touch up her hair with a flat iron in the morning to get out any kinks that might have occurred during sleep. This service is the ultimate and maximum amount of straightness that is possible in a chemical process. Note the name no longer implies relaxing the curl but rather straightening the hair all together. If your styling habits are to straighten or thermal style your hair 80-90% of the time, and are looking to cut down your daily styling time, and reduce frizz and increase smoothness, this is the service for you.
It is a good idea to remember that with any service involving an alteration to the natural form of your hair there are risks. It is the responsibility of the client to be informed and know the potential risks and proper care and treatment for each service performed on them. It is equally the stylist responsibility to ensure that they have educated the client so they may make an informed decision. If done right, relaxing or thermal straightening your hair can be a wonderful thing that, not only makes your daily routine a breeze, but also gives your hair that soft smooth and healthy look that gives you confidence and leaves you feeling and looking absolutely fabulous. The well educated professionals at Ritual are always eager to answer any questions you might have and do whatever is in our power to help you look your best.

We do have a couple of before and after photos on our website and on our facebook page if you'd like to check them out :)

Blowout, Thermal or Relaxer?

The dirty backstory...

Since the time of Cleopatra women have been altering their hair, in particular the texture of their hair. It seems part of the human condition to want what you don't have. Those of us with bone straight hair want body and wave and conversely, those of us with a mass amount of curl want silky smooth and straight hair. Nowadays with so many options at our disposal it is easy to get lost in the push-pull marketing gimmicks that we are bombarded with on a daily basis. the three main options commonly practiced today are: Brazilian Blowout, Thermal Straightening, and Chemical Relaxing.

Much stigma surrounds chemical services in the hair industry. To make an informed decision about what service is right for you, it is helpful to understand how each service has changed in its application and chemical components over the years; as some services have vastly improved while others are still dwelling in a dangerous and archaic past.

The practice of chemically altering the hair to achieve a desired texture is nothing new, in fact permanent waving (perms) and chemical relaxing (relaxers) have been around since the late 50’s and widely available to the consumer beginning in the 60’s and booming into everyday fashion in the 70’s. In those days the chemical processes of altering the makeup of hair were crude and very harsh on the hair. We have all heard the horror stories of some poor woman's hair breaking off or falling out due to some botched perm or relaxer job.

Relaxers where some of the worst offenders, as their chemical process relied on sodium hydroxide (lye) as the active agent in the straightening process. Lye, being a very harsh and unforgiving chemical, often caused bleeding, burning and the lose of hair or skin in the hands of an uneducated salon professionnel. Sounds far from “relaxing”, right?!

The sodium hydroxide process gave chemical relaxers a bad name, and the stigma is still present today even though most salons and product manufacturers no longer use lye bases relaxers. This led to a demand for a less harsh and safer process to achieve straight hair for those women looking to tame their curl. It was right around this time in the early to mid 90’s that Brazilian Blowouts were first successfully used. Gradually from the 90’s into the new millennium Blowouts slowly gain popularity and favor over relaxers in America.

Right around the same time a revolutionary new technique and product came to the market called the Japanese Straightening System (or) Thermal straightening, which took the thio chemical from modern perm solution and innovatively re-purposed it for straightening the hair instead of curling it. This system, like the blowout, relied on the thermal heat of a flat iron to temporarily alter the structure of the hair prior to the chemical process. This required a chemical that was less harsh and more flexible in the time spent on the head and the temperature of the hair, this chemical is called Thioglycolate. Now, there is no need to whip out your chemistry set or pull out your chart of the periodic table, I will keep it simple. Thio is a two step process that breaks down the bonds in the hair, then rebuilds them in whatever structured form the hair is in during the second process (I.E. curls if ihair is on a perm rod and straight if ironed flat). Exactly like today’s modern perm, which is unfathomably healthier and safer than what we had back in the day. For the most part both Thermal straightening services and Chemical Relaxers use thioglycolate today.

The Japanese Straightening System (JSS) is its own brand, and has its own line of products, and is only available to salons that pay to have the brand name. The technical term for that type of service is Thermal Straightening, and it wasn’t long before every other product company developed their own thio Thermal System, and now it is widely available in most salons in America. You might be asking, what is the difference between a Thermal System and a Chemical Relaxer if they both use the thio chemical? The difference is in the process. By taking the time to flat iron between each step of the process the result is that the hair is chemically altered to the straightest possible form it can be in; whereas relaxers, that do not utilized a thermal process, are much less effective in the range of curl reduction. Each service has different results and used for different purposes.

Now, lets get back to Brazilian Blowouts. There is a lot of confusion and misunderstanding concerning Brazilian Blowouts. The notion that, Blowouts do not use chemicals and are not harsh on the hair, was use to usher the product into the favor of the consumer as an alternative to chemical and thermal relaxing. The truth is Blowouts use chemicals that are in many ways worse than any lye or thio process. The way a Blowout works is by preserving the texture of the hair once it has been flat ironed. So it doesn’t actually chemically alter the hair, however, the chemicals used to ensure the hair is preserved in its straightened state for any length of time are extremely powerful and potentially deadly. Blowouts rely on formaldehyde and other chemical preservatives that are commonly used in preserving dead animals.

You might be thinking, well that sounds bad, but how is it any worse than the lye or thio chemicals that can melt your hair and burn your scalp. The answer is simple; formaldehyde is a poison that not only affects the skin and hair but gets into the blood and affects the whole body. In the early 2000’s several documented deaths relating to overexposure to formaldehyde from blowouts shocked the fashion community and caused a major evaluation of the product. It is worth noting that the Brazilian Blowout process is banned in many countries. After the panic and the dangerous truth about the preservation process was brought to light, many salons stopped offering the service. Recently it has attempted a comeback under the new name Brazilian Keratin Treatment (BKT), utilizing the Keratin (a key protein in the chemical makeup of hair) as a positive marketing point. The fact still remains that the fundamental process relies on preserving the hair with an agent such as formaldehyde. Supposedly, the new formula has less of the preservative chemical in it, and is “Safe.” One can still argue that substituting one deadly poison for another doesn’t really change anything, furthermore, applying poison to someones head doesn't sound like a good idea no matter how little amount it is. After all, a rose is still a rose if called by any other name.

The Most Extreme Option

We, of course, believe that the worse thing that could happen to you would be to end up with a Donald Trump hair piece, but recovering from that would be a bit easier than opting for a hair transplant proceedure.
When I got married, we had a pianist play at our wedding. The music was lovely, but no one can forget the scary looking "plugs" on the top of his head. Those days are long gone, fortunately! Just like every other medical proceedure, the process is much improved, and so are the results.
A typical hair transplant proceedure takes place over 3 visits. It cold be more or less, depending upon the level of hair loss you have and the amount you'd like restored. The average transplant costs $16,000 once it's all said and done, but the results are pretty convincing!
As this is a surgical proceedure, we suggest you cruise around the web and schedule some consultations. Most of the time these are at no cost, and you want to do your homework if you're going to let someone cut into your head!

Rogaine, Nioxin or Propecia...?

So, you've upped your vitamin intake, checked for potential health issues and you want to take the next step. Deciding on a treatment plan for hair loss can be a bit like deciding on which cheesecake to have from Cheesecake Factory. There are so many choices available and they ALL sound good!
Keep in mind that the key to hair loss treatments are 1. Consistant usage, 2. Patience, and 3. Continued usage. Without any of these three, your results will not be noticible, or long lasting.
Here is a run down of the three most used hair loss treatments. You need to decide what you are actually willing to do each day to help you decide which one is for you.

~Nioxin
Nioxin tends to be the "preventative" measure in most cases. It is designed to take care of the scalp and hair health so that you keep the hair that is currently on your head. There are people who absolutely love this product, and those who are not believers. I think that the truth lies somewhere in the middle. Clearing the sebum from your scalp definately will ensure that you lose less hair! Getting rid of the mites that may be running amuck on you scalp and hair will also help. Perhaps the best option is a two or three pronged approach.
Nioxin has several formulations, one that is likely right for you!
System 1 is for fine, natural hair, normal to thin-Looking (early stages)
System 2 is for fine hair, natural hair noticeable stages of thinning (advanced statges)
System 3 is for early stages of thinning and for treated hair, colored or permed.
System 4 is for chemically enhanced fine hair, noticeable thinning
System 5 is for medium to course hair early stages of hair loss, natural hair.
System 6 is for medium to course hair. for advanced stages of thinning. natural hair.
System 7 is for medium to course normal to thin-looking chemically enhanced hair
System 8 is for medium to course chemically enhanced noticeable thinning hair


~Rogaine (Minoxidil)
Originally developed as a blood pressure medication, Rogaine, was the first FDA approved medication for the treatment of hair loss. Rogaine is a topical solution that is applied directly to the scalp. It can be purchased without a prescription and in generic formulations in concentrations of 5% (for men) and 2% (for women).
It was observed that patients who were taking minoxidil began growing body hair and it was reasoned that applying minoxidil directly to a bald scalp might cause hair to grow in this area as well. Studies showed that this was indeed the case, although the growth was generally modest.The original studies on Rogaine were performed on the crown, so there is a misconception that it only works in this area. Although minoxidil usually works best in the crown, it also works to a lesser degree in other areas, such as the front of the scalp, as long as there is some fine (miniaturized) hair in the area. It does not work when the area is totally bald. The greatest benefit from the medication is seen from 5 months to 2 years (remember, PATICENCE!), with a gradual decrease in effectiveness after that. Users of minoxidil long-term will continue to lose hair, but at a somewhat slower rate. The exact mechanism by which minoxidil works is not known, but the drug is felt to increase the duration of the hair follicle growth cycle (called anagen). This improves the quality of the hair by increasing the diameter and length of fine (miniaturized) hair. The simultaneous use of minoxidil and Propecia, which directly inhibits the formation of DHT, may have some synergistic benefit in the treatment of hair loss, although the latter medication is significantly more effective. Minoxidil should be applied to the scalp twice a day. The medication only works if it is in direct contact with the scalp (not the hair) and only works in areas where it is applied. Therefore, it is important to use the medication in the front part of the scalp if this is an area of thinning. The 5% formulation is twice as effective as the 2% solution, but contains propylene glycol, a compound that can irritate the scalp and can make the hair feel sticky and difficult to manage. If this is a problem, you should consider using the 5% solution at bedtime and the 2% solution (which is alcohol based and less sticky) in the morning. When using minoxidil, it may take 6-12 months before any results are seen. The majority of patients who see an effect from minoxidil experience a delay, or decrease, in the rate of hair loss. The drug also serves to thicken already existing hair. It will not grow any new hair on a bald scalp. Rogaine Foam is a new form of 5% Minoxidil in a glycerin and alcohol base. The foam technology is a convenient way of delivering minoxidil to the scalp without the sticky and often irritating effects of propylene glycol, the delivery compound used in the original 5% solution. When released from the canister, the new product seems like a shaving foam, but it rapidly "melts" when it reaches skin temperature. Applying Rogaine as a foam allows convenient application to the scalp without dripping or running down the forehead or neck, and without leaving a sticky residue in the hair. Once a day topical use of Rogaine (topical minoxidil 2% and 5%) seems to be almost as effective as using it twice a day. The reason is, that although minoxidil has a relatively short half-life of several hours when given orally, when topically applied, it has a half-life of 22 hours in the skin. This suggests that once a day dosing is a reasonable option. It is important to realize that Pfizer, the company that now makes Rogaine, specifically states that it will be less effective if used only once a day.If minoxidil is discontinued, the effects of the drug wear off within three months and the previous pattern of hair loss resumes. When minoxidil is restarted, one generally does not regain the hair that was lost, so it is best not to stop and start the mediation, but to use it regularly. Minoxidil has been prescribed (off-label) in conjunction with other medications, such as topical retinoic acid (Retin-A), to enhance its penetration into the skin, increasing its effectiveness. This combination of medications, however, can greatly increase the absorption of minoxidil into the bloodstream and may increase the risk of potential side effects, including changes in blood pressure and severe scalp irritation that has led to scarring. The 2% concentration of minoxidil is approved for use in women. Women are generally more sensitive to the side effects of minoxidil in decreasing blood pressure (hypotension) and may get light-headed from the medication. Women also have an increased risk of developing allergic skin reactions (contact dermatitis). An annoying local reaction that women sometimes get from topical minoxidil is the development of facial hair. Although the facial hair slowly resolves when the medication is discontinued, at times the hair may need to be removed. Carefully trying to avoid the medication dripping down onto the temples and forehead seems to reduce, but not totally prevent, this problem. There is a significantly greater incidence of these side effects if the 5% solution is used.
Rogaine
Alternative names - Regaine, Minoxidil
Consistency is the key to success since stopping the application of Rogaine will cause the hairs gained to be lost in about 6 months. On the other hand the results from Rogaine can diminish over time, some doctors believe there is a tolerance that is built up over many years of use. One way of remedying this tolerance concern is to take a week or two off the treatment every 3-4 months. However it is not recommended to do this until you have been using it consistently for at least 12 months.Rogaine and DHTRogaine unfortunately does not reduce or remove DHT which is the cause of Androgenic Alopecia. However this can be remedied by using a DHT inhibitor in combination with Rogaine. In fact some dermatologists recommend using Rogaine in conjunction with Propecia, and there have been studies that have show that these two drugs work synergistically and give far better results than using either drug on its own. Pharmacia, the manufacturers of Rogaine actually hold a patent for using Rogaine with a DHT inhibitor, or Anti Androgen.
Side effectsSide effects are not common, but some people can experience a contact dermatitis or irritated skin from the alcohol in the Rogaine. Excessive doses can cause a rapid heartbeat or dizziness but is very uncommon with normal use.

~Propecia
Propecia is the only once-a-day pill approved by the FDA for the treatment of certain types of male pattern hair loss in men. Propecia reduces DHT, a key cause of hair loss and clinical studies have shown visible results.
For best results, take Propecia every day for 12 months, however, you may need to take it daily for 3 months or more before you see a benefit from taking it. If Propecia has not worked for you within 12 months, further treatment is unlikely to be of benefit.
Once again, Propecia can only work over the long term if you continue taking it. If you stop taking it, you will likely lose any hair you have gained within 12 months of stopping treatment.
Propecia was developed to treat mild to moderate male pattern hair loss on the vertex (top of head) and anterior mid-scalp area (middle front of head) in MEN ONLY. There is not sufficient evidence that Propecia works for receding hairlines at the temples.
Propecia is for the treatment of male pattern hair loss in MEN ONLY and should NOT be used by women or children. This is a prescription medication, so you will have to talk with your doctor to ensure that it is right for you.
In clinical studies for Propecia, less than 2% of men experienced side effects. Since this is a family blog, I won't go into graphic details, but make sure you know what the possibilities are before you take that pill!.
Although results vary, generally you will not be able to grow back all the hair you have lost.

Hair Loss and Diet

You've heard the phrase, "You are what you eat"... well, it applies to your hair too! Making sure you are eating a good diet is the first place to start with prevention, and should be part of your plan if you are trying to reverse hair loss.

Eating a diet high in fruits and vegetables and low in starch helps to slow the process of hair loss. Fruits & veggies contain flavonoids, many of which are antioxidants that may provide protection for the hair follicles and encourage hair growth.

Eating foods high in biotin and/or taking supplements of biotin promotes healthy hair and skin and may even prevent hair loss in some men. What food has biotin in it? Brown rice, green peas, lentils, oats, soybeans, sunflower seeds and walnuts- just to name a few.

Including soybeans and tofu (or other soy foods) in your diet inhibit the formations of the hormone that is at the center of hair loss (dihydrotesterone).

Do not eat foods that contain raw eggs. For all of you that love your raw-egg power breakfast, raw eggs are high in avidin. Avidin is a protein that binds to biotin and prevents it from being absorbed. Cook the eggs, people!

The following nutrients are very important for healthy hair and scalp. If your diet is lacking, consider supplementing the following:

Essential fatty acids (flaxseed oil, Kyolic-EPA, primrose oil or salmon oil): improves hair texture and prevents dry, brittle hair.
Raw thymus glandular: stimulates imune function and improves functioning capacity of the glands (not child safe)
A supplement specifically for hair, such as Ultra Hair from Nature's Plus: they contain nutrients necessary to stimulate hair growth.
Vitamin B Complex: Important for the health and growth of hair
Biotin: Deficiencies have been linked to skin disorders and hair loss. This is vital for hair growth.
Inositol and Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM): which aid in the manufacture of keratin, the major protein componant of hair.
Vitamin C with bioflavonoids: aids in improving scalp circulation. Helps with the antioxidant action in hair follicles.
Vitamin E: Increases the oxygen uptake, which improbes circulation to the scalp. Improves health and growth of hair. Use the d-alphatocopherol form.
Zinc: stimulates hair growth by enhancing immune function. Using zinc lozenges or OptiZinc is best for absorbtion.

The following nutrients are important:
Coenzyme Q10 plus Coenzyme A: Improves circulation and increases tissue oxygenation
Dimetlglycine (DMG): Good for circulation for the scalp
Kelp: Supplies needed minerals for proper hair growth

If you are thinking that 12 supplements may be too many for you to swallow (no pun intended), do your homework to figure out what will work best for you!

Hair Loss- Causes

For all of you follically challenged, or "if you know someone who knows someone who is follically challenged", here is a crash study on hair loss.

There are several types of hair loss: Alopecia Universalis (loss of all of your body hair, including eyebrows and eyelashes), Alopecia Totalis (the loss of all of your scalp hair) and Alopecia Areata (the loss of hair in patches, or areas).


Factors that are involved in hair loss include heredity, hormones and aging. Researchers have yet to agree on the exact cause of hair loss, but some scientists believe the body's immune system mistakes hair follicles for foreign tissue, and attacks them. Many also suspect a genetic component. Just another thing to blame on your parents!



Less dramatic, but no less trumatic and more prevalent is Androgenetic Alopecia (Male Pattern Baldness or MPB). As the name implies, a genetic or hereditary predisposition to the disorder and the presence of androgens- male sex hormones- are involved in this condition. Research indicates that the hair follicles of individuals susceptible to MPB may have receptors programmed to slow down or shut off hair production under the influence of androgens.



All women experience some thinning as they grow older, but it is not ususally as extensive and most often does not occur until after menopause (another thing to look forward to!).



Most creepy, but true, is that there is a species of tiny mite, called Demodex follicularum, that may be the cause of, or a contributing factor to, balding. These mites are present in all hair follicles by the time a person reaches middle age, and in most cases cause no harm (but I itch just thinking of them!). Researchers believe that the difference between people who lose their hair and those who do not may lie in how the scalp reacts to the presence of these mites. If the body initiates the inflammatory response as it tries to reject the mites, this may close down the hair follicles, thus killing the mites,but also killing the hair.



As if that weren't enough to stress you out, here are some other factors that promote hair loss: heredity, poor circulation, acute illness, surgery, radiation exposure, skin disease, sudden weightloss, high fever, iron deficiency, thyroid disease, chemotherapy drugs, poor diet, fungal infections such as ringworm, vitamin deficiencies and stress.



If you are interested in learning about ways to prevent, stop or reverse hair loss, just read on!